There’s very little info on that peak so I figured I’d write something as I made a few navigation errors that could have been avoided! See description below, I’ll update this post with a link to the TR for the full 5 days trip.
From Caltha lake the route is cairned to the glacial lake below Skook Jim. Past that I see two options: go clockwise around the lake, which I had doubts about because of one short section that looked very steep, or counter-clockwise.
View from where the cairns drop you and option 1 drawn in red (in the red square is the short sections I feared could block me):
I chose the second option, and made the mistake to try and go below the cliffs. I had to scramble down steep slabs which wasn’t horrible but I wasn’t prepared for that and it did feel sketchy with my tired running shoes. On the way back I stayed close to the top of the ridge and it was much better (almost no unnecessary ups and downs and it shortcuts towards the smaller lake).
The outflow has created a small gorge and crossing it was the crux of the day for me, it involved a class 3 scramble on slabs (my least preferred type of climbing…) and then a fairly easy two step jump to cross the water (not too hard but a fall would send you in a washing machine waterfall!).
The final slab and the little waterfall:
In red my way in, which I don’t recommend , in blue the way out (line is very approximate, I think I was higher) is much safer, more efficient and better overall:
After that it’s pretty straightforward to the flatish summit ridge and then to the top. The only small difficulty was a small head wall, which I tried to bypass using the snow on the way up, but it only led to scrambling on super loose gravel and terrible holds (left on the pic below) so I recommend scrambling up a diagonal crack (on the right):
Coming back to Caltha was straightforward. It took me 8 hours total including about a full hour spent on route finding (lots of trial and error to avoid venturing into class 5 terrain!), some skinny dipping in the glacia lake and some huckleberry eating. Not your usual peak but super rewarding!