Lesser Wedge 5/13/2025

Caspar and I had excellent conditons up Lesser Wedge on Tuesday.

We started from Wedgemount Lake TH at 4am. Snow on trail from around 1400m was soon sloppy and unsupportive so we threw on snowshoes.

We had fun on the Wedgemount Glacier and pitched out a couple stretches largely using simple terrain belays.


Topping out on the arete:

Approaching our objective:

The line up Lesser Wedge’s NW face was aesthetic and fun. The conditions varied from supportive bucket steps, loose unsupportive snow, and thin coverage over rocks:

Us on the summit:


The forecasted clouds rolled in after we summitted and kept things firm and cool for us on the descent. We enjoyed fast travel on supportive snow almost the whole day, just sloppy on the descent from Tupper Lake.

It was really sweet for me to revisit the area, Wedge being one of my early mountaineering trips around this time one year ago. Both excellent trips with stellar company.

Thanks to Francis, Steve, & Alex putting up the great beta last year.

1 Like

Nice work, looks like that face actually holds snow for a quite a long time. I always envisioned some part mid way through would melt out early on, but I guess not!

1 Like